Champagne Agrapart & Fils 7 Crus NV (Base 22. Disg. March 25)

Disg. March 2025. The Agrapart range begins with a non-vintage wine called 7 Crus. The name refers to the seven villages from which the wine derives. These include Avize (from younger vines aged 20 to 40 years), Cramant, Oger, Oiry, Avenay-Val-d’Or, Coligny and Vauciennes. Like all Agrapart wines, the fruit is from 100% Estate-owned and farmed vineyards.

7 Crus is a blend of two harvests. In this case, 50% is 2022 from Premier Cru sites, and 50% is 2021 from Grand Cru sites. The reserve wine was raised in neutral, 600-litre oak casks from François Chidaine and Didier Dagueneau. The breakdown is 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir (this and the Complantée are the only Agrapart wines that are not Blanc de Blancs). Even at this level, the wine was aged for three years on lees, and was disgorged with 5 g/L dosage. This is the most immediately seductive cuvée in the Agrapart range, yet it is still extremely fine: long, racy and saline with some gentle grip. And as the note below makes clear, it’s become ever classier in recent years under Ambroise Agrapart’s tutelage. Sadly, we do not get nearly enough.